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To reach the mountain range, you drive west from
Denpasar through Mengwi. As you leave the southern plains, the landscape
changes from flowing tiers of rice to motley patches of onion, cabbage
and papaya grown in the cool climate of the highlands.
The clusters off arm houses along the way are no longer the familiar
thatched huts of the south, but sturdy cottages made of wood and
tile to withstand the steady downpour of heavy rains. This is rich
alpine country. The earth, saturated by mountain streams, is smothered
with thick moss and creepers. The road climbs and winds its way
around steep cliffs hung with ferns, wild flowers and elephant grass..
In jungle terrain lies the serene lake of Bratan, veiled with mist.
It fills the ancient crater of Mt. Bratan. Because the lake is an
essential water source for surrounding farmlands, the people of
Bedugul honor Dewl'tanu, goddess of the waters, in the temple UluDanu
on a small promontory on the lake. One can stay overnight nearby
at a rest house on the shore. It is peaceful and cool. Children
fish for minnows and canoes cross the still waters, carrying firewood
to villages on the further bank. Just near Bedugul is the market
of Bukit Mungsu selling wild orchids and both temperate and tropical
vegetables grown in the fertile soil here. Near the market are the botanical gardens. Lake
Bratan is so lovely that it is easy to forget the surrounding forest-clad
mountains. From the market a path leads through pine plantations
up towards the primary jungle on the peaks. An old Dutch forestry
house and the remains of a once extensive garden lie mysteriously
within the forest. There is a small temple VWgh up, its walls carved
with superb relief. On the road north of Bedugui, past the new international-standard
golf course, the road rises along the lip of Lake Buyan, affording
a clear view of the Bratan basin.
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